Dimanche (Sunday)

We enjoyed the Epiphany mass at Ste-Clotilde, a joyous conclusion to the parish's Christmas celebration. The Ordinary of the Mass included many familiar carol tunes, all highlighted in the various creative organ improvisations by the titular organist. The Cavaille-Coll organ from the time of Cesar Franck's tenure is a special instrument, colorful and grand with beautiful reed stops that are bold but without pushing or overwhelming the space. The bright, high nave of this basilica is as open and welcoming as the congregation itself, which was there in large numbers including many children. A special moment in the mass was the dedication of all babies baptized during 2011. Each child's parents received a lit taper and many brought with them their child's baptismal candle. At the end of the mass, all the children were invited to process with votive candles to the creche. It was a powerful reminder of Lumen Christe, the light of Christ that shines in the darkness and which the darkness cannot overcome. We were generously received by the priest, titular organist and assistant organist and invited to spend time in the organ gallery after mass, playing and exploring this important instrument. This open console tradition dates back many decades and is in evidence throughout the city. Another highlight was hearing the weekly recital at St-Eustache including a transcription of a Vivaldi concerto by Jean Guillou, erstwhile organist of St-Eustache and Franck's weighty Priere. Our group was pleased to be joined by Brad Schultz '07, currently a graduate student in organ and sacred music at Emory University in Atlanta, who is taking a few days between terms to see sights and hear concerts in Germany and France. -- GP

Aujourd'hui a été l'églises et musique d'orgue, demain le Louvre! (Today was churches and organ music, tomorrow the Louvre!)

Basilique Ste-Clotilde (Neo-Gothic building, the church of Cesar Franck, Charles Tournemire, and Jean Langlais)

Detail Ste-Clotilde. The bells were beautiful, had deep tone, and reverberated throughout the nave before and during worship.

The organ of Ste-Clotilde. Largely altered from Franck and Langlais' time, it maintains the wonderfully French 'montre' (foundations) and especially the reeds. The original console is in Belgium (Franck's native land).

The nave-- Ste-Clotilde. Gorgeous, peaceful. It was absolutely filled for mass- many children were present-- a point of pride for the friendly and engaging Curé.

Here we are gathered around the console, playing from some Bach scores we found. Between GP and Sam Libra is Brad Schultz '07 (brother of Ethan '12) has joined us on leave from his own vacation in Leipzig.

The shrine in Saint-Louis's (Louis IX) Sainte-Chapelle which was built to house his newly acquired relics of the Passion (allegedly the Crown of Thorns) in the early to mid 13th century. The stained glass, needless to say, is breathtaking.

The (sideways) altar and sanctuary at St-Eustache. This is where the likes of Joseph Bonnet, André Marchal, Jean Guillou have played. We heard the weekly 5:30 recital here.

The illuminated facade of the Van den Heuvel organ-- presumably the largest in Paris-- in the gallery of St-Eustache.

Hier, aujourd'hui

Yesterday was an intense day of tourism. We looked for Quasimodo among the gargoyles and other statues, heard the bells of Notre-Dame, walked the grounds of the Louvre and Tuileries. We also attempted to attend a mass for the Feast of Epiphany in hopes that someone would be playing le grand orgue. But, surprisingly, the Epiphany celebrations will be saved for Sunday-- as it might happen in the U.S.

Today was a late start. We walked to St. Gervais where there was scheduled a 4 pm organ recital. When we arrived under an increasingly gray sky, the sign on the door read "concert annulée." Our appetite for appreciation of the beautiful church was not annulled, however, and we spent time discussing the French Baroque organs, architecture and design which is so present there. We then walked to Place de la Concorde where there is a carnival temporarily set up with a Ferris wheel probably linked to the new year and the soon to come Mardi Gras. The Place is where Louis XVI and his Marie Antoinette were shortened at the neck. It has fancy fountains and is loomed-over by an authentic Egyptian obelisk with a gilded point. The roundabout there marks the beginning of the Champs-Élysées, which leads to L'Arc de Triomphe and in the opposite direction L'Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard. There we could see the illuminated Tour Eiffel, the gold leaf dome of Les Invalides, and thousands of people wandering. We walked around the nearby Place de la Madeleine and L'opéra district. Some went to Chanel, some walked to marvel at the famous Opera Garnier. We convened for a long meal at a local brasserie where the quiche portion is larger than life. At 9 pm was the scheduled concert at Napoleon's La Madeleine. An imposing and heavy neo-classical temple with no windows. (Saint-Saëns was one famous organist who played here.) In the ornately gilded space we took in the white statues of saints, angels, and Mary Magdalene on the altar. The program was the Mozart Requiem, which was preceded by unannounced, surprising, and lovely renditions of the Schubert and Gounod Ave Maria's with orchestra and soprano. Three choruses of Vivaldi's Gloria were also performed. It was nice to hear these pieces in that space. 

Tomorrow we head for Franck's church, Ste-Clotilde for mass and will take in the 'audition' (recital) at St-Sulpice. Later in the day a recital at St-Eustache. 

We are getting very accustomed to hopping on and off the metro, but are still having a bit of trouble adjusting to the time difference.

Sam's obelisk. Le Grand Palais to the right, in background.

La Madeleine.

Nave of La Madeleine. The artwork within is far more beautiful than the imposing facade.

L'orgue de Couperin (St. Gervais)

From the choir.

400 stairs!

The winding staircase within the Notre-Dame towers

To prove we made it to the tippy top of the South Tower-- the North tower in the foreground, Hotel Dieu below, Montmartre and Sacre Coeur in the distance.

6 January (3)

Looking Northwest, from the bridge between the Notre-Dame towers. In the center: St. Eustache, to the right, on the hill (Montmartre) the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur.

Four pointy things: from Left the Gold dome of Les Invalides (Napoleon's final resting place is directly beneath the dome), black spire of St. Germain-des-Pres (Oldest church in Paris), La Tour Eiffel, and at right the twin Gothic spires of Ste. Clotilde (where Cesar Franck was organist). All on the left bank of the Seine, looking West. Taken from the South tower of Notre-Dame.

6 January (2)

Le Grand Orgue, back gallery of Notre-Dame

Stained glass detail in Apse of Notre-Dame

6 January (1)

From the Quai on the Left Bank, Notre-Dame behind (From left, John Stender, Sam Holmberg, Emily Griffen, Sarah Bieber, Sam Libra, Sam Simataa, GP, Tyler Simpson)

Notre-Dame Facade